Ethoxylated sorbitan monostearate. Fatty acid ester bond is cleaved by Malassezia lipase, releasing stearic acid that feeds yeast growth. Problematic for seborrheic dermatitis-prone skin.
The research
Polysorbate 60 is a emulsifier trigger backed by early but promising evidence (evidence tier 3 of 4). We track 3 studies for it, 3 reporting a positive effect.
Journal of Clinical and Investigative Dermatology · 2015 · review
Comprehensive review of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff: Malassezia lipase activity on sebum releases irritating free fatty acids (e.g., oleic acid), and host susceptibility drives the inflammatory response; reducing Malassezia and its lipid substrates is therapeutic. Does not specifically identify polysorbate 60 as a Malassezia-feeding emulsifier.
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology · 2004 · review
Review of Malassezia's role in seborrheic dermatitis: commensal Malassezia yeasts (notably M. globosa and M. restricta) and the host inflammatory/immune response to them are implicated in pathogenesis, and antifungal therapy is effective. Establishes the Malassezia link but does not specifically address polysorbate 60 as a yeast substrate.
Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings · 2005 · review
Review: Malassezia metabolizes sebaceous lipids via lipases, liberating free fatty acids (notably oleic acid) that penetrate the stratum corneum and trigger the inflammation and scaling of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff in susceptible individuals. Establishes the lipid-metabolism mechanism; does not specifically test polysorbate 60 hydrolysis.
Products with Polysorbate 60
In 854 products — most often moisturizers (318), serums (262), sunscreens (97), from $2.51 to $1786.24. Set up a profile to rank these for your skin. Click any product to learn more.
May aggravate: Seborrheic Dermatitis (Polysorbate 60)
Hydrating Dewy Gel Cream Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid +Ceramides is a barrier moisturiser by First Aid Beauty. Key ingredients include Glycerin, Squalane, Dimethicone.
May aggravate: Seborrheic Dermatitis (Glyceryl Stearate and Polysorbate 60); Atopic Dermatitis / Eczema (Salicylic Acid)
CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser with Amino Acids for Normal to Dry Skin 236ml is a water cleanser by CeraVe. Key ingredients include Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceramides.
May aggravate: Seborrheic Dermatitis (Glyceryl Stearate and Polysorbate 60)
Perricone MD High Potency Intensive Niacinamide-rich Smoothing Serum 59ml is a brightening serum by Perricone MD. Key ingredients include Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate.